April 16th, 2014
One fairly common repair I do is to change out front-load washer door boots (or bellows). This boot is leaking and that’s why its being changed, but the more common reason for the change is because its getting moldy. If you would like to avoid this repair the best thing you can do is leave the door ajar when the machine is not being used. This allows the inside of the machine to dry out and cool off. And we all know that mold needs a warm moist environment with bacteria present. Which brings me to the second point. That is to minimize the bacteria by occasionally running the machine with bleach inside. (A good time to do your whites).
December 17th, 2013
We Replace the Timer on a Basic Admiral Gas Dryer
Mechanical timers are pretty reliable devices, especially on dryers. Most of the time, dryer problems stem from the heat source not coming on, as in this case. However what made this particular job unusual from the rest was that the burner components were all functioning normally. The burner wasn’t getting power. So basic troubleshooting skill says follow the voltage (or lack thereof) until you find the change in voltage status. At that point you most likely have found the source of the problem. Actually the faulty timer threw me for a loop because timer failures are so rare. I was suspecting poor airflow tripping an over temp sensor or perhaps more likely (which I see often), burner coils wearing out. The only thing that caused me to discount those ideas was the fact that there was never any voltage getting to the burner in the first place. So I knew the problem was not about any of the burner components. It had to something else…
August 3rd, 2013
A older Maytag Electric dryer that won’t heat:
Joanne, one of my most faithful customers loves her old Maytag Electric dryer for its simplicity and reliability. She is one of the most value-minded people I know. But being the owner of a palm company, she is instinctively wired to get the most value for the least dollar. Joanne, you rock!
May 23rd, 2013
They were downsizing. My customer moved from Encinitas to Carlsbad into a smaller house. Easier to keep up, kids gone, time to contract a bit. The Whirlpool Duet Washer and Dryer were moved into the new place, and on the first use, she noticed some water beneath the machine. Not thinking too much of she passed it off as some water that must have spilled out when the machine was tipped in transit.
But a couple days later, another wash-load and this time she saw a lot of water on her floor and decided she needs my services.
Finding the source of leak wasn’t apparent at the outset, and I knew most of the water showed up while the unit was spinning and draining, so I focused my attention to those areas. When I saw water dripping from the bottom of the tub I feared she would be in for a major job. A cracked outer tub is almost not worth having the machine repaired. An expensive part(s) and at least 2+ hours to do. Fortunately for her, cracked tubs aren’t very common so I kept looking. And there it was.
First I noticed the drain hose abrasion pad was worn away on one side and looked even closer. There it was– the drain hose was worn through- by the concrete counter weights on the tub.
When these side loaders spin even with a relatively balanced load they will really gyrate about. Make it an unbalanced load and the machine might start walking round on the floor.
From the extent of the wear, it was evident that this condition had been existent for some time and the transit did not cause the problem. In my experience the hardest part of fixing anything is isolating the source of the problem. I believe it requires some detective skills, looking for clues to point out the way. Actually changing or fixing the parts is easy (relatively).
The longer I stay in this business the more experience I gain and the better I get. I really love my job!
June 26th, 2012
Ok, here’s the scenario…
You have a dryer, gas or electric, doesn’t matter… You put your clothes inside- start the machine and yet, it takes 2-3 or more cycles to dry the clothes. YIKES! Something’s wrong!
So you call the service guy and he asks if the dryer is warm inside. You answer yes.
Ok, then. Based on that answer, the likelihood of the dryer being faulty is low.
The probable cause is POOR AIRFLOW through the machine. Now, it could be a worn out blower wheel, but you would have heard a rumbling sound if that were true. It could also be a high limit thermostat that’s tripping, resets, then trips again after a couple minutes. This is directly related to what I’m leading up to…
The high likely cause is that your house dryer vent is clogged up with a lot of lint, choking off airflow.
I see this time and again.
This problem is especially prevalent in houses where the dryer is located centrally in the house and the vent has a long way to the outside, or the vent exits on the roof (lots of the newer homes), excessive twists and turns in the vent… I think you get the idea….
So you probably need to have the vent cleaned out. If the distance is short and has few or no turns, you can probably do this yourself. If not, you need a company that specializes in this sort of thing. Go to our LINKS page to contact Dryer Vent Wizard.
Here’s a quick, temporary way to verify if this is what’s happening to you… Disconnect the vent hose at the back of the dryer and allow it to exhaust into the laundry area (remember, it’s just a test…), run the dryer as usual and if the drying time significantly improves, there’s your problem! (more…)